By Founder of How Things Connect Podcast & Voyaj Ambassador Stephanie Wang…
How Things Connect podcast shares holistic perspectives and personal understanding on healing, empowerment and evolution by integrating the feminine, revealing the unseen and bridging the seeming polarities of self and world.
A journey across the Kingdom – It has now been almost one month since my return from Morocco, and it seems, I left a piece of my heart there. I still dream of getting lost in the winding streets of the Marrakesh medina in search of a fabled tagine restaurant, driving through the majestic gorges of the Dades Valley, and then suddenly surprised by an oasis of lush palms around crumbling kasbahs from another age.
Morocco is an extraordinary confluence of many religions and cultures including Berber, Arab, Spanish and French to name just a few of the obvious ones. Being there I could not help but feel that I had entered an interdimensional time machine that somehow allowed me to simultaneously experience the ancient and the modern, so that I could be in a still-operational 13th century tannery in Fez one moment, and then in the next minute pass a digital shop selling iPhone accessories. Yet, there is a coherence to it all, because this is a country with an old soul and a unique history of diversity and tolerance that continues to this day. There are not many places in the Muslim world where harmony exists between Muslims, Jews and Christians, and where these communities value each other. When I think about this, not only does the country’s other-worldly cohesion make sense, it brings me profound joy.
What lifted my soul even more was when I learned that the current King of Morocco, Mohammed VI is a progressive that supports gender equality and women’s empowerment, and has implemented new laws to reflect this. These days, I am a glutton for consciousness and higher expressions of humanity wherever I can find it. It is a frequency that I seek to resonate with and I believe all of us are capable of despite the strife and divisiveness we see in our world today.
I began my solo journey after arriving in Casablanca from New York, where I was picked up by Redouane my driver. He was to become a trusted friend over the next 13 days. We immediately drove 2 hours to Rabat. It was Christmas eve and a mutual friend had introduced me to Yasmine El Baggari who I was meeting that evening. The universe works in marvelous and mysterious ways, and what was originally supposed to be a quick dinner for the two of us, became a lovely Christmas eve feast with 9 random French, Italian and Moroccan guests and the riad’s general manager. Yasmine is courageous, brilliant and inspiring. She and I connected at once on entrepreneurship, the sacred feminine and travel. When she asked me to share my impressions of Morocco of course I had to say yes.
My first stop after Rabat was the blue city of Chefchaouen. We drove many hours and finally arrived at the sudden outcrop of a town in the mountains. The town was very quaint and charming, and yes, virtually every house is a gorgeous shade of bright cobalt blue, an imprint of Jewish influence. Most people spoke Spanish, which was great since my Spanish is far superior to my French and my Arabic is non-existent. Sure, I could have spoken English, but I loved the opportunity to listen to and speak a mix of French, Spanish and Arabic during the entire trip. There is something magical about connecting with people in their own language. It’s akin to shapeshifting to inhabit another where connection is immediate and hearts tangibly expand. I rode this high and as dinner time approached I was determined to eat at a recommended restaurant Bab Ssour I had researched ahead of time. The only problem was that it was a 20-minute walk away, and I was worried that I would have to walk back alone in the dark. Again, the universe had my back. I ended up dining randomly with a lovely Italian family who happened to be staying at the same hotel as me! Dinner was delicious and I tottled back to the hotel together with my new friends.
I made the choice to travel solo to Morocco, to the surprise of some friends. Did I feel safe as a single woman in Morocco? My answer to that is most of the time. As in any other country one makes common sensical choices of avoiding dodgy areas after dark. However, the unwanted attention from men who do not understand or respect the personal space of a woman is unfortunate. I was well warned and advised by my driver and guides who were protective of me. In 13 days I was pestered 4 times by men, each time while I was unaccompanied, but they disappeared after I said ‘la, shukran’ and walked away briskly. It was not too bad, but it did discourage me to deepen my exploration of the medinas on my own, which is a shame. I do not judge the men, because I know it is the legacy of patriarchy all too common in our world. I feel we are in the process of collectively shifting at this moment and am hopeful for the future.
From Chefchaouen we drove to the ancient Roman ruins of Volubulis where I was able to see some wonderfully-preserved mosaics. After that onwards to Meknes and then to fascinating Fes. I visited ancient foundouks (camel and merchant hotels), the oldest university in the world Al-Karaouine which was founded by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri in the year 859, and many ancient architectural and religious sites. Fes is also an important center for Sufism, described as Islamic mysticism which I have always found very interesting. The city holds an annual sacred music festival in June which I would love to attend some day. The Fes medina is an enormous labyrinth and virtually unnavigable with its more than 9000 streets and alleyways. I was told not to bother with Google maps or any other app because it wouldn’t work. Thank goodness I had my guide.
After Fes was the highlight of my trip – Merzouga, in the Sahara Desert. By this time I had become buddies with Redouane my driver. On our close to 9-hour drive, we spent hours talking about family, politics, and life. He shared that his son, like me, was gluten-intolerant so he understood my dietary challenges. He was generous and kind and took great care of me. We would have 3 intense continuous days of driving 9 hours each day through some of the most incredible landscape in Morocco.
On arriving in Merzouga I had to change cars into a 4-wheel drive to reach the camels. Camels are amazing creatures that are perfectly adapted to desert life. I imagined having to cross the unforgiving Sahara with my camel companion like the ancient traders did and what that would be like. I’m sure the camel would fare a lot better than I. When we got to the vista point, the timing was perfect as the sun was just starting to set. We watched as the sun slowly disappeared behind one of the rolling sand dunes and then rode on towards camp. Well... it was actually more glamp than camp with its luxury appointments. I had decided to treat myself
The Berber staff welcomed us to a dinner inside the dining tent, the only heated room. Afterwards, they played traditional Berber music outdoors with many different drums and sang as we danced around the bonfire. What a primal and ecstatic experience! I danced with abandon until I couldn’t breathe. The musicians even gave us an impromptu drumming class. Above our heads, the sky filled up with an explosion of stars as the night progressed. The milky way was clearly visible. It truly does not get better than this. I said a prayer of deep gratitude as I took in the sky, the stars, the new moon, the music, the fire – I felt so very privileged to be there and soaked in as much as I could.
After the festivities died down I had a quiet conversation with the Berbers as we warmed our hands and feet around the fire. We talked about where we were from and what our interests were, but mainly we just enjoyed each other’s presence. The Berbers and in general the people of Morocco are uniquely warm, welcoming, down-to-earth and authentic. Connecting with them, however briefly, was definitely a highlight of my journey. We sat around the fire until fatigue and cold drove me into my tent. I said goodnight in broken Darija, the local version of Arabic which the Berbers tried to teach me but which I was alas unsuccessful in grasping. We had a good chuckle and I turned in. There was hot water and a shower (amazing!) but no heater. I dove under the heavy woolen blankets immediately after my shower as temperatures dropped to 2 degrees celsius (about 32 fahrenheit) that night. As I lay in bed I felt exhilarated, not just from the day but also from my new-found appreciation for the cold. The contrast between my plush surroundings and the natural elements kept it real, and served as a reminder for the fragility of life and what it’s like for many who live without modern amenities. I hope they keep It that way - without heaters, it’s good for the soul.
The next morning I woke up early, wrapped myself in a blanket, and hiked up to the highest dune I could find to witness the sunrise. The changing colors on the horizon of open expanse with the shifting shades of sky and sand were dramatic and breathtaking - without a doubt, the best sunrise I had ever seen in my life. I did not want to leave. It was so beautiful it was surreal, and almost felt like I was in a Hollywood film or a high-budget BBC nature documentary.
Turns out I was not the only one who had that notion. Ouarzazate would be the next stop after our second 9-hour drive. Near Ourzazate is the world’s largest concentrated solar farm, as well as the ancient ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou, and the famous Atlas Studios, where many films and shows such as Gladiator, Prince of Persia, and Game of Thrones were shot. On the following day, we journeyed to Marrakesh (another 9 hours) through the Atlas mountains. It was grueling but spectacular as we drove through the Dades Valley and Draa Valley, seeing curious rock formations, fantastic gorges and palm oases. Finally, we arrived in Marrakesh, and I could not have been happier to get to my riad and collapse.
Rising fresh the next day, I explored the city and medina. It was both fun and overwhelming for the senses – the colors, the smells, the snakes and snake charmers in the middle of Jemaa el-Fnaa square, I loved it all. Besides shopping at fabulous boutiques (if only I could don Moroccan dress every day) I visited many of the gorgeous riad guest houses just to see their beautiful architecture. It amazes me how every time I walk into a riad, all the street noise disappears and I find myself in a charming courtyard with a pool, fountain or garden, and serenading song birds flitting between balconies. This tableau of peaceful sanctuary, together with the daily call to prayer are two of my favorite things about being in Morocco. The experience is utterly transporting and dreamlike.
No wonder so many artists and creatives came to Morocco and continue to make it their home. Yves Saint Laurent was one of its famous residents. The Yves Saint Laurent museum recently opened two years ago next to the Majorelle Gardens and is definitely worth a visit. I received another unexpected dose of inspiration when I visited Kasbah Tamadot, Richard Branson’s 5-star retreat and hotel about an hour from Marrakesh set against the mountains of Imlil. As one of the staff showed me around he proudly told me that profits of the hotel go back to helping the local community with education and vocational training, in a manner that is aligned with Berber culture so that there is no commercial colonialism. My sincere wish is that more business people and foreign investors adopt Branson’s philosophy of building community, it not only makes sense ethically and sustainably, it’s good for business and the bottom line. Richard Branson’s mother Eve Branson has a foundation for training young girls as well. There is a shop where you can find clothing, arts and crafts created by these girls who receive a much higher percentage of profits than in regular retail so stock up if you visit.
I decided not to brave the jam-packed city center for New Year’s Eve and instead opted for a most relaxing Hammam session followed by dinner at my riad. A lovely Scottish family who were also guests invited me to join them at their table and we rung in the new year together. The universe does not disappoint. Our evening was resplendent with a celebratory feast and lots of belly dancing.
After all the hustle and bustle, I was glad to travel to my final destination, the quiet and laid-back beach town of Essaouira, where I was able to unwind for a couple of days before getting to Casablanca and fly back home.
It was a truly memorable and amazing adventure. Next time, I would love to make it a Voyaj journey.
Many blessings to the land and people of Morocco! May you continue to flourish and prosper without losing your magic, mystery and sense of humor.